Friday, May 14, 2010

A chicken here, a goat over there, maybe a few calves...

It's so bizarre, I feel that it has been ages and at the same time just yesterday I wrote my last blog. The day after I finished my last posting we left our last male companion, Dylan, behind in Rangpur and the five of us departed for Thakurgoan. The more into the country we get the more at home I feel. The stares have gone from confused and off putting to genuine curiosity. Over the past five days it felt like it was our job to wave at every happy face and smiling child we came across (a job I was overjoyed to do!). The landscape turned from endless markets to a more relaxed agricultural setting. My favourite part by far is the peppering of farm animals on the open fields. A chicken here, a goat over there, maybe a few calves, just happily grazing away harmoniously together!

After our first lunch we visited our first federation. For those of you not familiar with RDRS, the federation is the apex of its organization. The federation is a group of RDRS beneficiaries that are self-governing. Members can receive loans from RDRS as well as be eligible for workshops in agricultural skills or other economic production skills. In addition to this, RDRS provides informative sessions on important social issues such as early marriage, dowry, domestic violence, sanitation and the list goes on for miles. The goal is to have the federations become a completely self-sufficient unit. But this is only one component to the thorough programs RDRS offers.

Alright back from my huge tangent. When I arrived for my first federation visit I had butterflies in my stomach. I really had no idea what to expect. I learned about some of the activities I mentioned earlier and was really impressed with the youth aspect to the federation. They are not formal members but they do participate in workshops about issues mainly faced by youth. These teens go out to the communities and volunteer their already precious time to talk about what they learned.

There were three main subjects in our visit in Thakurgaon: agriculture, health and education.

The main agricultural development that was emphasized was the introduction of rice that allows for three growing seasons instead of only two. I'm not sure whether it was a communication barrier or not, but this fact was drilled into us by the end of the day. THREE seasons instead of two. It used to be two, and now it is three. Even though I'm joking about it, the fact that they are able to increase production so significantly is astounding. The agricultural program specialists that accompanied us, showed how the farmers are taught to plant a certain type of bean in between rice crops to allow for nitrate to return to the soil and provide protein for the farmers. In addition to this farmers will have small fish farms to offset the lack of money during the down season.

For the medical visits we went to a government run clinic that RDRS works with and met with the pregnant women who use it. The women pay 15 Taka and are eligible for 4 clinic check-ups (more if needed), pregnancy test, registration card, informative card, vitamins such as iron and calcium and a home delivery kit. If the pregnancy is complicated the health workers refer them to the hospital where RDRS will cover cesarean costs. They also train traditional midwives to be present at the birth. The rest of the day was spent visiting villages with twins (we saw three sets!!!) and newborn babies. I just have to say that Bengali children are the most beautiful, well behaved, curious and bright children I have ever been around. They light up my day every time I see them.

Speaking of children, we visited 1 preschool, 3 primary schools, 1 secondary school and a college. I saw many similarities in the classrooms in Bangladesh and at home. The basic drawings hung up on the wall, alphabet charts, cursive writing booklets and weather charts were the same as when I was growing up. All of the teachers were loving and kept the class in order. The main differences were found in the buildings made of bamboo and the covered dirt floors. Although all the children we met with looked healthy and well fed, we learned of programs in place to provide them with nutritional snacks to ensure their continued growth.

The secondary school had some very odd experiences. We were sat in front of the entire student body and they started asking questions to us about Canada and what we study. Then the question came up of what I wanted to be when I grow up. Well I guess the look on my face showed my unknown future because I suddenly had about a hundred students laughing at me. I stood there for a good 20 seconds bewildered and then finally muttered out archaeologist to sound interesting. Wait to remind me I just graduated and have to find my way when I get home.

When we left all the girls wanted to shake our hands. I was suddenly SURROUNDED by girls all with their hands out grabbing mine to shake it. It was at the time the most surreal experience I had had. That would change today and I'll explain it in a later blog.

So that wraps up our three basic areas that were covered this week but we also made many side trips. We met with a micro-credit group made up of all women. This RDRS group would give loans to women who:
1. Have less then 3 acres of land 2. Are poor 3. Residents of the village 4. Have no more than a secondary level of education.
The way this group functions it allows the women in the village to hold economic power within their families. They are the only ones eligible for the loans and training workshops. The women are also able to use the group to discuss the social issues they are facing.

After all of our visits this week I'm familiar with the usual questions of where we are from and why we are here. The harder questions to deal with are whether we can take some villagers back to Canada with us and if there are social problems in Canada. It's so difficult talking about our own Canadian issues. On one hand you want the members to support their partnership in RDRS programs and you feel that if you tell them there are beggars and landless people they will lose hope of their social changes. On the other hand who am I to sugarcoat the real social issues our country faces? We have homelessness and domestic violence, women still get paid less than men on average, and like the tribal people in Bangladesh, our First Nations groups continue to fight for justice in land claims. I don't think my dilemma with this is going to get any easier too.

Changing the subject a little, I have to mention just in general the people of Bangladesh. These people will honestly be with me forever. I am blown away by their generosity and sincerity. Twice we were given produce out of villagers gardens, villagers who are the ultra poor of the world. There is no way to tell them how thankful and honoured I am to have been able to spend even just a few minutes with them. This one older man, I believe was the leader of an indigenous clan, is etched into my mind. He was skin and bones, wearing nothing but a lungi and an undershirt. He also had some of the thickest glasses I have ever seen. This man was constantly smiling and speaking up during the meeting. When we left he said goodbye to each of us. This might not mean much to you but I just had to write about him.

Quickly on sightseeing, we visited our first pond (!), walked through two forests and saw a breathtaking terracotta temple. This temple was built in the 1700's, three stories tall and had been intricately carved on the entire surface. This was an archaeologists dream.

This blog also wouldn't be complete without mentioning the intense heat we went through. I'm sorry to all of the past BSLE participants, but you forgot how hot it is!! I know the great people and stories blur your memory a bit but this is ridiculous. Walking through the forest I think I had made peace with the idea of not getting out alive. Between the heat and the blatant uncertainty of where we were going from the guides, I sweat in places I didn't know I had. Example: my shins and the back of my hands. During one meeting it was so hot and long at one point I looked out the door and saw one of the women using this crazy 360 degree hand fan. I guess she saw the look of longing on my face and interrupted the meeting to hand it to me. In front of the entire group, BSLE team and on looking villagers I tried to spin this fan. It did not work out. I not only couldn't do it but I almost whacked myself in the face. Everyone found this hilarious. I was pretty happy though when Eileen bombed it too.

Okay this blog is getting out of hand, time to try and reel it in. Our last night in Thakurgaon was cultural night. The staff and family gathered and musicians and singers performed Bengali songs and dance. Most of the songs were about the good the federation was doing. Then we had to get up to sing our two songs. What the audience didn't know though was that the BSLE team had somehow talked me into dancing for cultural night. I was a ballet dancer up until highschool but have not practiced a step since then. Fortunately, the audience never got to see it because we ended early.

Regardless of my earlier rant, the hardest part of the week was saying goodbye. When we got outside to our van yesterday morning the entire staff had gathered to see us off. They had gotten us each bouquets and flowers as parting gifts. I spent the next fifteen minutes saying goodbye and driving away in complete silence to keep myself from crying. The idea that I will most likely never see these people again, or even the villagers I had met, was heartbreaking. I hope it gets easier to say goodbye!

It's nice to be back in Rangpur though, away from trying to get out of your mosquito net in the middle of the night like a ninja antics and the constant power outages of A/C. This week to Saidpur!

You might get another blog from me this week just because I in no way covered everything. Also, I apologize for numerous spelling and grammar mistakes. The internet is fidgety so I try to write and send it in as soon as I can.

All the Best,

Celia

2 comments:

  1. Ah Celia, I remember you as this shy little high school girl. You've blossomed into such an articulate, thoughtful woman....

    Your blog is facinating and your insight touching.... Thank you for taking us blog readers on such a life changing journey.

    Rebecca Ferguson

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  2. Good blogging Celia.
    I'm glad you had a good time in Thakurgoan, it was definitely one of my favourite experiences.
    When talking about Canada's own social issues, it's important to keep in mind that there isn't a country in the world that doesn't share the same issues on some level.

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